المساعد الشخصي الرقمي

مشاهدة النسخة كاملة : اطلب اى دائره الكترونيه وانا تحت الخدمه


العرمرم
02-11-2005, 01:29 PM
لوعندك اى استفسار او سؤال عن تصميم او مشروع او اى طلب لاى دائره الكترونيه ماعليك الا السؤال وانا انشاء الله سوف اوفرها لك خلال اقصر فتره

meetoo
07-11-2005, 04:04 AM
al salamoo 3alikoom
if u can , i want modem wireless cct.
thank u a7'ie el kaareeem for ur help>

العرمرم
07-11-2005, 04:15 AM
ممكن توضح اكتر
انا فهمت سى سى تى فى
http://members.aol.com/cctvdirect2u/cam2


http://www.seemans.com/images/cctvf.jpg



لو قصدك حاجه غير كدا وضح اكتر
ولو قصدك سى سى تى فى حق الارسال اللاسلكى كلمنى عشان اجيب ليك الدوائر فى اقرب فرصه

العرمرم
07-11-2005, 05:46 AM
i need a circuit consist of two parts
the first multi channel IR transmitter,the second is the receiver
based on PIC16F84 and its software
http://home.swipnet.se/perz/transmitter.gif

Figure 1. IR transmitter schematic.

The components shown in the schematic are the ones I use in the final design. They are chosen mainly because of their small size. In my prototypes, I have used slightly different components, but this does not have any effect on the function.

If you don't care about the size, you can replace V1 with four standard diodes, e.g. 1N4148, and the transistors can be replaced by some other types e.g. BC547B instead of BC847CW and BC557B instead of BC857CW. You can also use a PIC12C508 instead of the PIC12C508A version. Only the 'A' version comes in the smaller package (/SN package option).

Pulse generation

The pulse generation is done by the PIC processor. The rest of the components are power supply and reset circuitry. The transmitter sends out two different 8-bit codes, one for each LED. This makes it possible to detect the direction of the loco. I let the codes differ only in bit 7 and the parity bit. This gives a very simple PIC program.

Data is sent as 'LED off' pulses, where a '0' or a '1' is coded by the length of the pulse. Each data sequence consists of:

One parity pulse. (Odd number of '1's, including the parity bit.)
Eight data pulses, least significant bit first.
The length of a '0' pulse is 38 PIC instructions, and a '1' is 102 instructions. The 'LED on' time between each bit is 38 instructions, and the 'LED on' time between two consecutive data sequences is at least 178 instructions. The PIC processor runs from its internal RC oscillator, which gives a nominal instruction cycle time of 1 microsecond.
An example of a pulse sequence with hexadecimal data 1A (decimal 26). High = LED on


http://home.swipnet.se/perz/waveform.gif



Figure 2. IR transmitter pulse sequence example.

The PIC12C508A processor has to be programmed with an individual code for each loco. The PIC program for the transmitter can be found here:

irsend2.asm Assembler source code.
irsend2.hex Hex code, for e.g. IC-prog.
These files send the hexadecimal data 0A and 8A (10 and 138 decimal). In the source code, the data value to be sent is defined in the beginning of the program. Just change it to the value you want for the moment. The program will send this value on one of the LEDs, and the value + hex 80 on the other LED.
In the HEX file, you can change the value with e.g. IC-prog. You find the value 0C0A at hexadecimal address 100. The two least significant hex digits (0A) is the data value.

Power supply and reset circuitry

The diode array V1 forms a rectifier bridge, that converts the incoming AC or digital signal to DC. Resistor R1 is there to limit the peak current through the diodes to well below the specified maximum value of 450 mA. Capacitor C1 is the bulk decoupling capacitor. It must be rather large to overcome the power drops that occur due to bad contact between the wheels/pick-up shoe and the track. The bulk decoupling is placed before the voltage regulation, because it is here you get the most effect out of it. But this also means that you need to have a high voltage rating, at least 35 V.

R2, V2 and Q1 is the voltage regulator. The function is equivalent of a standard 7805 regulator, but the discrete solution is smaller, and probably also cheaper. C2 is another decoupling capacitor, to filter out the switching noise from the PIC.

R3, R4, R5 and Q2 is the reset circuitry. When the voltage drops below a certain level (approximately 2.8 V), the transistor Q2 turns off, and the resistor R5 will pull the MCLR pin of the PIC down to 0. This will prevent a so-called "brown-out condition", which otherwise may occur if the supply voltage to the PIC drops below 2.5 V without going all the way down to zero.

The two resistors R6 and R7 are there to limit the current to the two LEDs to a suitable value.

Prototype

I have built two prototypes and mounted them in two of my locos. Here is a picture of the prototype, mounted in a Märklin 3374. At the same time, I converted the 3374 to fully regulated digital, with the 60901 conversion kit.



http://home.swipnet.se/perz/transmit.jpg




Figure 3. IR Transmitter prototype.

Final design

The final version of the transmitter electronics is a 18.5 x 14 mm single-sided circuit board. My friend and colleague Stefan Eskilsson designed the layout. A PDF drawing of the layout can be found here.

I have assembled the transmitter boards, and built them into most of my locos. The PIC processor is mounted first, together with five temporary wires connected to the five
round soldering pads. The five wires are used when programming the PIC, and are removed before the rest of the components are mounted.

The square soldering pads to the left are the connections for power and for the two IR LEDs



http://home.swipnet.se/perz/ir_transmitter.jpg


راح اضع مجموعه من دوائر الاستقبال والارسال عن طريق الانفرايرد
فياريت انت توضح لى بالظبط الهدف من دائره الارسال والاستقبال حقت الانفرايرد عشان انا اضع ليك الدائره المناسبه وتغطى البعد الانت عاوزة والحجم المناسب لتجربتك

العرمرم
07-11-2005, 05:52 AM
http://www.geocities.com/zs6bne/images/mb097.jpg




http://www.geocities.com/zs6bne/images/InfraredTX.gif المرسل



http://www.geocities.com/zs6bne/images/InfraredRX.gif المستقبل

meetoo
08-11-2005, 03:35 AM
al salam 3alikoom
not cctv
i need this project: wireless modem circuit(cct) for comuter
thank u a7' el kareeem

aladinmehanny
10-11-2005, 05:46 AM
السلام عليكم
ارجو المساعدة ضرورى
لدى جهاز يعمل بترانس 15 فولت 200 فولت أمبير و تحدث لى مشاكل كثيرة بسبب تغير الفولت فى مصر فهل يمكنك مساعدتى , و انا غيرت الترانس بترانس متعدد الدخل (180-190-200-210-220-230-240 فولت ) بس المشكله انى لازم اتابع الفولت باستمرار علشان اغير الدخل يدوى , لو مافيش خل ممكن طريقة للتغيير اتوماتيك
مشكور مقدما أخى

العرمرم
10-11-2005, 08:25 PM
السلام عليكم
ارجو المساعدة ضرورى
لدى جهاز يعمل بترانس 15 فولت 200 فولت أمبير و تحدث لى مشاكل كثيرة بسبب تغير الفولت فى مصر فهل يمكنك مساعدتى , و انا غيرت الترانس بترانس متعدد الدخل (180-190-200-210-220-230-240 فولت ) بس المشكله انى لازم اتابع الفولت باستمرار علشان اغير الدخل يدوى , لو مافيش خل ممكن طريقة للتغيير اتوماتيك
مشكور مقدما أخى
اخوى انا مافهمت معنى كلمه((ترانس)) لكن من سياق الكلام اعتقد انك تقصد ترانسليتر ((محول))
من 200 الى 15 فولت
على العموم انا راح اضع بين يديك كميه من دوائر المحولات النتعدده والمختلفه
وشىء اخر اخى انا اعتقد ان كل الموطن العربى يشتغل بى 220-240 فولت
وتقريبا السعوديه فقط تشتغل فى بعض المناطق بى 180-190
عموما لو انت مشكلتك تذبذب الفوولت يمكن ان تستخدم منظم للفولت وهو منخفض التكلفه نسبيا
ويعطيك خرج ثابت مهما كان الفولت متذبذب

aladinmehanny
11-11-2005, 04:36 AM
الاخ العرمرم
شكراً لرك السريع ,المقصود بالترانس هو ترانسفورمر trnasformer ) محول كهربى
اما بالنسبه للفولت فهو مفترض أن يكون 220 فولت , لكن الكهرباء عندى شديدة التغير مره تكون 180 فى موضع و مرة أخرى تصل الى 240 فولت
بالنسبة لمثبت الجهد , هو فعلاُ متوفر الا اننى اتنقل بهذا الجهاز كثيرا جدا , مما يجعل من اصطحابى الدائم لمثبت الجهد شىء مستحيل . خاصة أننى لا أملك سيارة .
و الجهاز شبيه ببروجكتور من تجهيزى الا ان المشكله ان تغير الفولت الشديد يقلل للغاية من عمر اللمبة و هو أصلا 50 ساعه فقط و هى لمبة ليست رخيصة
أرجو المساعدة مشكورا أخ عرمرم

العرمرم
12-11-2005, 03:22 PM
هنلك حلين بين يديك اخى الكريم الاول انك تروح لى اقرب محل الكترونات وتطلب منه ترانس فورمر
240-180فولت وهو متوفر ولايحتاج الى تحويل يدوى مهما كان التيار متذبذب لايوثر لانه مصمم لتحمل تذبذب التيار ويجب ان تختار الاجود والافضل لتضمن الاداء الافضل
وحتى تضمن الخرج ثابت هنلك نوع من الثنائيات تستخدم لتثبيت جهد الخرج على حسب الطلب ويطلق عليها ثنائيات الزينير
اما الحل الثانى انك تشترى منظم جهد ويوجد انواع كثيره وضغيره فى الحجم وخفيفه الوزن مثل هذا
http://www.euronetwork.co.uk/acatalog/19-1049.jpg :icon30:

hatem2
14-11-2005, 01:26 AM
ارجو إرسال دائرة فيديو سونى موديل slv x95

aladinmehanny
14-11-2005, 02:19 AM
الأخ العرمرم
شكرا لتعاونك الشديد , لكن للأسف بالنسبة للخلول المرسلة من سيادتك مواجهه بما يلى :
1- بالنسبة للمحولات الجتاهزة أقصى حد لها 3 أمبير . أما الجهاز الذى اطلب المساعدة بخصوصه مطلوب خرج الترانس 12 أمبير
2- بالنسبة للحل الاخر يصلح فى حالة Dc تيار مستمر و اللمبة تعمل على 15 فولت . 12 أمبير Ac تيار متردد
فهل لديك ما يفيدنى مشكورا

حسن عكاشة
16-11-2005, 11:51 AM
السلام عليكم ورحمة الله وبركاتة
لو سمحت اريد عمل اريال تلفزيون يستقبل القنوات الخارجية لان ظهرت عندى بعض القنوات الفضائية ( ولاكن صورة رديئة )
بمعنى ( حرامى الدش )

العرمرم
16-11-2005, 06:01 PM
http://www.electronics-lab.com/projects/rf/003/Tv1.gif

TV Signal Amplifier

General Description

This is a small, broad band, signal amplifier which covers the frequencies from 40 to 900 MHz. These frequencies include TV in VHF and UHF and also the radio broadcasting frequencies in the 88 - 108 MHz FM band.
It is connected between the antenna and the input of your receiver and boosts the signals by up to 20 dB, thus making it possible to receive even the weakest signals



http://www.electronics-lab.com/projects/rf/003/tv7.gif



PARTS

R1 = 120 Ohm (brown, red, brown)
R2 = 1,5 KOhm (brown, green, red)
R3 = 270 Ohm (red, violet, brown)
R4 = 82 KOhm (gray, red, orange)
C1,C5 = 100pF (ceramic)
C2,C3 = 1nF (ceramic)
C4 = 2,2pF (ceramic)
D1,D2 = 1N4148 diode
Transistor = BFR90, BFR91, BFW92
Misc = PCB, 6pins, solder, 9V battery clip

L1,2:
diameter : 5mm
wire thickness : 0,5mm
turns : 8


Construction

First of all let us consider a few basics in building electronic circuits on a printed circuit board. The board is made of a thin insulating material clad with a thin layer of conductive copper that is shaped in such a way as to form the necessary conductors between the various components of the circuit. The use of a properly designed printed circuit board is very desirable as it speeds construction up considerably and reduces the possibility of making errors. Smart Kit boards also come pre-drilled and with the outline of the components and their identification printed on the component side to make construction easier. To protect the board during storage from oxidation and assure it gets to you in perfect condition the copper is tinned during manufacturing and covered with a special varnish that protects it from getting oxidised and also makes soldering easier.
Soldering the components to the board is the only way to build your circuit and from the way you do it depends greatly your success or failure. This work is not very difficult and if you stick to a few rules you should have no problems. The soldering iron that you use must be light and its power should not exceed the 25 Watts. The tip should be fine and must be kept clean at all times. For this purpose come very handy specially made sponges that are kept wet and from time to time you can wipe the hot tip on them to remove all the residues that tend to accumulate on it. DO NOT file or sandpaper a dirty or worn out tip. If the tip cannot be cleaned, replace it. There are many different types of solder in the market and you should choose a good quality one that contains the necessary flux in its core, to assure a perfect joint every
time.
DO NOT use soldering flux apart from that which is already included in your solder. Too much flux can cause many problems and is one of the main causes of circuit malfunction. If nevertheless you have to use extra flux, as it is the case when you have to tin copper wires, clean it very thoroughly after you finish your work. In order to solder a component correctly you should do the following:
- Clean the component leads with a small piece of emery paper.
- Bend them at the correct distance from the component’s body and insert the component in its place on the board.
- You may find sometimes a component with heavier gauge leads than usual, that are too thick to enter in the holes of the p.c. board. In this case use a mini drill to enlarge the holes slightly. Do not make the holes too large as this is going to make soldering difficult afterwards.
- Take the hot iron and place its tip on the component lead while holding the end of the solder wire at the point where the lead emerges from the board. The iron tip must touch the lead slightly above the p.c. board.
- When the solder starts to melt and flow, wait till it covers evenly the area around the hole and the flux boils and gets out from underneath the solder. The whole operation should not take more than 5 seconds. Remove the iron and leave the solder to cool naturally without blowing on it or moving the component. If everything was done properly the surface of the joint must have a bright metallic finish and its edges should be smoothly ended on the component lead and the board track. If the solder looks dull, cracked, or has the shape of a blob then you have made a dry joint and you should remove the solder (with a pump, or a solder wick) and redo it.
- Take care not to overheat the tracks as it is very easy to lift them from the board and break them.
- When you are soldering a sensitive component it is good practice to hold the lead from the component side of the board with a pair
of long-nose pliers to divert any heat that could possibly damage the component.
- Make sure that you do not use more solder than it is necessary as you are running the risk of short-circuiting adjacent tracks on the board, especially if they are very close together.
- When you finish your work, cut off the excess of the component leads and clean the board thoroughly with a suitable solvent to
remove all flux residues that may still remain on it.

The project is a very easy one, as the components which form the circuit are very few and their outlines have been clearly stencilled on the board for you. The only unusual thing is that the transistor must be soldered from the copper side of the board. This is, however, common with UHF devices and is usually done to avoid the introduction of stray capacitances between the transistor’s leads that could possibly alter the behaviour of the circuit. Be careful to make good joints and try to keep the component leads as short as possible because of the very high frequencies involved. Solder first of all the pins and the resistors. The coils are supplied ready to be soldered on the printed circuit and you
should take care not to deform them in the process. Place then the capacitors and solder the diodes carefully trying to avoid overheating them and making sure that they are correctly aligned. Solder the transistor in its place, after you have finished soldering the other components, to avoid overheating it, and be careful to align it according to the diagram included in the instructions. (The lettering on the transistor body should be facing away from the copper). The input of the circuit is at point 4 and ground and the output at point 1 and ground. The battery is connected using the battery clip supplied at points 2 (-) and 3 (+), and is a miniature 9 V one, alkaline if you prefer. For best performance and to avoid unwanted interference during operation it is recommended to place the circuit in a small metal box, and use suitable connectors mounted on the box for the external connections. You can use a box large enough to house the amplifier and the battery or you can use an external power supply, but remember to use a FEED THROUGH capacitor on the positive supply line, where it passes through the metal box. If you plan to use the amplifier for both VHF and UHF TV reception you should use a common VHF/UHF mixer before the amplifier’s input.
:msn-wink:

العرمرم
16-11-2005, 06:05 PM
التوصيل الخلفى لهذه الدائره
http://www.electronics-lab.com/projects/rf/003/tv5.gif

http://www.electronics-lab.com/projects/rf/003/trans.gif


http://www.electronics-lab.com/projects/rf/003/tv6.gif

http://www.electronics-lab.com/projects/rf/003/pcb.gif


Technical Specifications -Characteristics

Frequency response: 40 - 900 MHz
Gain: . 20 dB
Maximum output level: 90 uV
Input - output impedance: 75 ohm

ahmedemad
28-11-2005, 08:02 PM
انا عارف ان طالبى سهل ان شاء الله

انا مطلوب منى عمل دائرة تحكم فى نور سلم+دائرة تاخير زمنى

مش عارف اى واحده i need your help

hisham_eg12
01-12-2005, 02:23 AM
i want acirciut for dc motor control

hatem2
02-12-2005, 01:09 AM
ارجو إرسال دائرة فيديو سونى موديل slv x95
أرجو الإفادة سريعاً لو تكرمت لاننى فى حاجة ماسه لها

waleed24w
03-12-2005, 02:59 AM
اخي اريد رسم دائرة شحن البيوس في المزر بورد الحديث بس ياريت توضحلي بعض الرسم علشان قرائتي للرسم ضعيفة

kimo-marmar
20-12-2005, 03:47 AM
لو سمحت يا باشا
انا عايز دائرة dc motor drive
وابقى شاكر جدا جدا

kimo-marmar
20-12-2005, 03:49 AM
لو سمحت يا باشا
انا عايز دائرة dc motor drive
وابقى شاكر جدا جدا
ممكن تبعتهالى على الميل
cooleng_mmm@yahoo.com

zorro3
26-12-2005, 01:39 AM
ممكن بعد اذا سمحت كنت عاوز دائره بتخرج sawtooth waveform بتردد 20 ميجاهرتز بس باى حاجه غير max038 يعنى لو ممكن باى ترانزيثتور بحاجات بسيطه

waelsys
28-12-2005, 05:08 PM
ممكن دائرة انذار بنفس فكرة دائرة السلم
يعنى مرسل ومستقبل مع وجود شعاع عند قطعة تنير اللمبات وتعمل صوت
فكرة بسيطة لكن لم يدلنى أحد برجاء المساعدة

جيت لي
30-12-2005, 02:23 PM
اخوي انا ابغاك تصمم لي هذه الدائرة ببرنامج logic work

Project: Design of an Electronic Lock

An electronic lock needs to be designed which is operated by entering a 4-bit password.
If the entered password is not correct, then the lock will not work.
In this project, you will design the electronic lock with the following requirements:
• A 4-bit password will be entered using 4 switches.
• There will be two output LED’s.
o A green LED is used to show if the lock is open or closed. It turns ON
when the password entered is found correct. Otherwise, the LED will
remain OFF.
o A red LED is used to show system lockout. It turns ON when a user does
not enter the correct password in three attempts.
o Only one LED must be ON at any time.
• A user is allowed only three tries for entering the correct password. After three
unsuccessful tries the system will lock out.
• There should be a reset switch which is used to reset the system.
• You should use a ROM device for storing the passwords.
Any extra features used to make the lock more sophisticated will receive bonus
points.
You will build and test your circuit in LogicWorks. You can use any type of gates and
MSI devices (such as ROM, Magnitude Comparators, Counters, etc.).

مُحب الرحمن ورسول الله
31-12-2005, 09:40 PM
تم غلق الموضوع نظراً لعدم متابعه صاحب الموضوع للموضوع واهتمامه به
وجارى انشاء موضوع شامل لجميع الدوائر الالكترونية